Created in the clothing revolution during the early 19th century, the suit has come a long way and has gone on to become a fashion staple in the modern times. When worn correctly, it emits an old-world charm which merges with modern-day class.
When it comes to buying suits, big brands can be extremely expensive. But it takes a lot more than money and a chiseled torso to get the best out of your fabulous suit.
Luckily, you always have the option of having your suit custom-made. Skilled tailors never shy away from giving style advice, something that you can use to your advantage when getting one tailored for yourself.
I would recommend you play it safe with the style and the fit and go the old-fashioned way.
While you may be tempted to experiment, be trendy, or go for more daring designs, avoid doing so. It is always better to stick to convention when you’re getting yourself a custom suit, especially if it is your very first one.
Go old-fashioned with a touch of modernity in your suit by using shoulder pads to create squared shoulders, and have the sleeves tapered to the wrists. You can have peaked lapels for a V-shaped chest and an additional breadth to the wide shoulders.
Patterns such as single, double, chalk, wide and narrow stripes are timeless and would look great, especially if your suit is made from a dark-colored fabric. You can go all out and be bold in your choice of the other supplementary elements such as the lining and the suit buttons.
Always remember, the biggest advantage of a tailor-made suit is its fit. It is the make-it-or-break-it factor as it determines how well it will or won’t sit on you.
Seeking out a bespoke from a skilled sartor should be a priority.
As long as you’re going for a custom suit, you may want to make sure you understand exactly what it is. These days people pick up suits off the rack at stores only to get them altered or get their initials embroidered on them by their tailor and term them ‘custom-made.’
Men with a great sense of style, however, look for tailors who understand the term custom as bespoke, which implies that the suit maker tailors the suit to the exact specifications as ordered by the client.
Discuss your options with your tailor as he may be aware of several styles and know the tricks of the trade. If you’re looking for something very specific, try and get a picture of it in a fashion magazine to your tailor so that he can advise you about the kind of fabric you’ll have to purchase for him to create the suit.
A good tailor can also help you decide what would best complement your body type to make you look better.
You Can Get Them Online
While you may think that only a tailor can make you’re a custom suit in his shop, here comes along the Internet with online portals that can do the same job for you.
You now have the option to buy suits online. It is really convenient as all you need to do is select the various elements of your suit such as the fabric, the color, the shoulder pads, the lining, and the buttons. Personalize it by choosing from among the styles available on the website, and submit your measurements. They will take your order and your suit will be tailored to fit you like a glove. And delivered to your doorstep!
Remember to be choosy. Browse designs like you would in a garment shop.
One of the main reasons people find it hard to buy custom suits is because they cannot see the finished product until it is ready. This is what drives them to readymade clothing stores wherein they can see for themselves the various ready-to-wear styles and patterns before they buy it.
However, custom suits have their upsides too. You won’t have to get it altered several times before it fits perfectly. Keeping the channels of communication open with your tailor is key. Tell him exactly what you expect your suit to look like and fit – how you’d like the jacket to fall on your shoulders, how your trousers should fit around your waist, and how they should sit atop your shoes.
Ask him to show you examples of his workmanship and assess the style (rather than the fit, at this stage) of the suits as you would at a store. Most tailors have a few ready suits hanging around, and will also suggest designs and ideas that you may not have thought of.
A true custom suit needs to be designed as per your tastes and should serve your needs. This could mean the use of luxurious fabrics or the inclusion of hidden pockets could be just one of the many possibilities.
Be aware of your choices in advance.
Getting a custom suit entails making a lot of good choices with respect to elements such as the patterns, the lapel, the vents, the notches, the pockets, etc. Generally speaking, understanding these aspects is easy.
What is difficult is getting into the nitty-gritty and knowing what you like in terms of the height of the buttons, fit in the waist, and the width of the trouser. All these questions will pop up at the time of fittings.
A good tailor will pay careful attention to these details and will use the best quality trims to go along with their fabrics. This refers to genuine horn buttons, durable linings and zippers. Other considerations include chest and collar canvases, shoulder pads, sleeve heads, and collar felts. He will ask you if you would like your suit jacket to fused, partially canvassed or fully canvassed.
There are hand-stitched and machine-stitched options as well. While the final product would be similar to look at, the quality would make all the difference. Handwork in certain areas of the garment such as a hand-set canvas, hand-rolled lapels, hand-felled collar, and hand-set sleeves is recommended as it would allow for the small elements to stand out and give the garment greater flexibility and dimension.
So whether it is a pinstripe suit you’re interested in getting, or are looking to get your hands on a 3-piece suit for men, make it all very clear to your tailor when discussing the finer aspects.
Make it a point to engage a specialist.
Every tailor stitches suits in his own way, and specializes in different kinds of cuts and styles. To know that your suit will look right, you need to be familiar with the tailor’s predominant style and then approach him.
This will help you avoid getting into awkward situations wherein you find yourself in the middle of an appointment only to discover that you don’t like what the tailor does best.
Do not assume that because someone calls themselves a tailor, they know everything there is to know about men’s style or can assess proper fit. Take a good look at your friend’s attires and figure out who among them always dress smartly. These are the people you want to ask for tailor recommendations.
Once you have a tailor, talk to them about your requirements and insist that they give you what you want, rather than push their own ideas on you.
When it comes to pants, too long can be absolutely wrong.
One of the biggest mistakes you can make with a suit is wearing pants that are too long. Suits are the ultimate garment of sophistication; hence, there are certain things that should be avoided.
Your suit’s trousers should never be pooled over your footwear. Having said that, let me also state that wearing shorter pants will not help you either. It is best to wear pants that end at the top of your shoes. Ideally, they shouldn’t be showing off your socks at all.
At the time of fittings, emphasize that you would like your pants to have a clean look and no break and maintain that they are stitched that way.
If you’re going bespoke, it’s okay to let the brands take a backseat.
The cloth you pick for your bespoke suit may carry a label on it. Know that the label does not mean much. It could indicate an actual mill, a merchant, a brand, a reseller or a combination of all these factors.
By going only for specific brands, you may be restricting yourself in terms of the choices available to you. You never know, you may find something fabulous in the tailor’s in-house collection. So do be mindful of is the quality of the fabric, and the weight and the color of the cloth.
Suits made from wool have always been the most popular. Flannel is great for the winter season, whereas cotton and linen are better for the warmer months as they’re lightweight and breathable. It is recommended that you steer clear of linen though, as it creases easily.
It is important that a man’s wardrobe incorporates at least one great suit. If you’re lucky enough to get yourself the perfect one right of the rack, that’s great. If you cannot, all is not lost. You can get a fabulous suit with the help of a skilled tailor. Work well with him and get it made just right!